Greetings for the last time!
Before I go too far in this last entry, I want to personally thank each of you for reading. I'd like to give special thanks to the folks at SmithMoore who read along and helped assure my mom I was alive!
First, I'll talk a little bit about Canterbury (where I spent the last five days). It's a town in South East England very near to the coast (some people I met had walked from the coast in a morning), and has been around for a long time. Much of the architecture is still Roman, with a large amount of medieval construction as well. Luckily, most everything survived the World War II bombings.
So, about the town: it is a traditional walled city, and the wall still exists around most of the town. You can walk along the wall, and there are only two or three ways into the city (where the gates are). Inside, the streets are layed out pretty much the way they were in the past (though with modern stores), and are all cobblestone. The center of the city is the massive and beautiful Canterbury Cathedral, built between 1150 and 1400. It's a really stunning building, and absolutely huge. (Much bigger than Notre Dame or St. Paul's in London, for example). The Canterbury Cathedral is the mother church for the entire Anglican Communion, so I did some good research there.
Canterbury (well, the pilgrimage people make to Canterbury) is also the impetus for Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, and there were some very cool re-enactments and demonstrations on the streets the Saturday I was there. There are also a good number of interesting gardens (which really means park), as well as a very old castle (from the early middle ages), which is partially decrepit. All in all, I loved Canterbury, which was very different than Nottingham.
My last evening in Canterbury, I went to the top of the Dane John mound (the highest point in town and a Roman burial mound) to watch the sunset for the last time in the official research part of my travel. My experience has truly been amazing; looking back, I couldn't imagine how things might have gone better or smoother. In the end, I'm so grateful to have had this opportunity, and hope to share it with as many of you as possible over the coming weeks and months.
So, in the end, webale muno (thank you in Rutooro) and Hamba gaschli (loosely "go well" in Zulu). I'm most grateful to all of you for your support.
Will
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Some Sightseeing...and English Words
Yes, I know I've been much less consistent about writing recently. And yes, I know that it doesn't make sense; I'm now in a country with loads of internet access. Sorry about that; I'll try to update a few more times before I finish. Here's the update:
Monday and Tuesday, I continued my research in Nottingham by meeting with several of the rectors in the area. To prove it's a small world, I also met the daughters of one of the priests at the Cathedral in Cape Town! They were visiting the city as well. I also was able to sightsee a bit in Nottingham, which is the home of Sherwood Forest and the Robin Hood tales, as well as a hub of the Eastlands. It's a cool city; very closely packed, very commercial, and also with some great parks along the River Trent.
Then, back to London on the train for another day and a half of sightseeing, during which I took in the Changing of the Guard, a walk along the Jubilee Bridge, through Westminster and past Big Ben, Leicester Square, Trafalgar Square, St. James' Park, Piccadilly Circus, SoHo, and a play at the outdoor amphitheatre at Regent's Park, The Importance of Being Earnest. Very interesting, beautiful and fun! Now, I'm off to Canterbury in the morning!
I thought I'd leave with one anecdote: British English has a number of slight differences that amaze me. One very good example is the implied meaning of the word scheme. In America, scheme has a slightly dirty connotation--something that is a bit under the table. In England, however, every church I've visited advertised their "Gift Aid Scheme" and Nottingham has a "Bicycle Registration Scheme." Don't worry; the church isn't cheating people of money! It's simply their tax-free status, but scheme refers to a much greater array or set-ups here.
Will
Monday and Tuesday, I continued my research in Nottingham by meeting with several of the rectors in the area. To prove it's a small world, I also met the daughters of one of the priests at the Cathedral in Cape Town! They were visiting the city as well. I also was able to sightsee a bit in Nottingham, which is the home of Sherwood Forest and the Robin Hood tales, as well as a hub of the Eastlands. It's a cool city; very closely packed, very commercial, and also with some great parks along the River Trent.
Then, back to London on the train for another day and a half of sightseeing, during which I took in the Changing of the Guard, a walk along the Jubilee Bridge, through Westminster and past Big Ben, Leicester Square, Trafalgar Square, St. James' Park, Piccadilly Circus, SoHo, and a play at the outdoor amphitheatre at Regent's Park, The Importance of Being Earnest. Very interesting, beautiful and fun! Now, I'm off to Canterbury in the morning!
I thought I'd leave with one anecdote: British English has a number of slight differences that amaze me. One very good example is the implied meaning of the word scheme. In America, scheme has a slightly dirty connotation--something that is a bit under the table. In England, however, every church I've visited advertised their "Gift Aid Scheme" and Nottingham has a "Bicycle Registration Scheme." Don't worry; the church isn't cheating people of money! It's simply their tax-free status, but scheme refers to a much greater array or set-ups here.
Will
Sunday, July 5, 2009
England!
Greetings from England, the land of the tourist! After spending so long in places where there weren't tourists (Cape Town is a tourist town, but it was winter), I was overwhelmed by the sheer number of
I spent Friday in London with my friend Michelle Healy. The city is very interesting, and I found it quite similar to DC (where I spent last summer), though it's obviously a great deal bigger with hundreds of years more history.
I picked up on the Tube system pretty easily after my experience with the Metro, and was amazed at the number of signs everywhere directing people towards the tourist sites. Michelle and I saw the Tower of London (which includes the Crown Jewels and several museums), Tower Bridge, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, the Tate Britain (art museum), and several nice parks along the Thames. We both enjoyed wandering throughout the city and taking in whatever we discovered!
Then, we had dinner with a friend of Michelle's, Kate, in Covent Garden, a very cool cobblestone area overflowing with small shops, restaurants, and pubs.
All in all, my day in London was fantastic, and I'm really looking forward to going back on Wednesday and Thursday. Then, I'm going to see a play, and hopefully take in some of the other sights.
Saturday, I took a train from St. Pancras, in London, to Nottingham, where I am now. I'm here for research (it's a strong center of evangelical Anglicanism), but I've really enjoyed this city a great deal. The entire city center is cobblestone and pedestrian, with a large Market Square and several other interesting squares. I'm going to explore tomorrow after a couple of meetings in the morning.
In general, my time in England is going to be less focused than my time in Uganda or South Africa (by design). I'm here to get a feel for the diversity of worship in the Church of England, and I don't need to learn any specific Diocese really well. Thus, I'm spending 4 days in Nottingham, 2 more in London, and then 4 in Canterbury. The looser focus and increased travel will also allow me to see a bit more of the country, which I'm looking forward to!
Hope the 4th of July was great in the States!
Will
I spent Friday in London with my friend Michelle Healy. The city is very interesting, and I found it quite similar to DC (where I spent last summer), though it's obviously a great deal bigger with hundreds of years more history.
I picked up on the Tube system pretty easily after my experience with the Metro, and was amazed at the number of signs everywhere directing people towards the tourist sites. Michelle and I saw the Tower of London (which includes the Crown Jewels and several museums), Tower Bridge, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, the Tate Britain (art museum), and several nice parks along the Thames. We both enjoyed wandering throughout the city and taking in whatever we discovered!
Then, we had dinner with a friend of Michelle's, Kate, in Covent Garden, a very cool cobblestone area overflowing with small shops, restaurants, and pubs.
All in all, my day in London was fantastic, and I'm really looking forward to going back on Wednesday and Thursday. Then, I'm going to see a play, and hopefully take in some of the other sights.
Saturday, I took a train from St. Pancras, in London, to Nottingham, where I am now. I'm here for research (it's a strong center of evangelical Anglicanism), but I've really enjoyed this city a great deal. The entire city center is cobblestone and pedestrian, with a large Market Square and several other interesting squares. I'm going to explore tomorrow after a couple of meetings in the morning.
In general, my time in England is going to be less focused than my time in Uganda or South Africa (by design). I'm here to get a feel for the diversity of worship in the Church of England, and I don't need to learn any specific Diocese really well. Thus, I'm spending 4 days in Nottingham, 2 more in London, and then 4 in Canterbury. The looser focus and increased travel will also allow me to see a bit more of the country, which I'm looking forward to!
Hope the 4th of July was great in the States!
Will
Thursday, July 2, 2009
From the Top of Table Mountian...to the shores of Qatar
Greetings from London! It's only been a few days since I wrote my last message from Cape Town, but there is a lot to share and I feel like I've been hit by one of the red double-decker London buses (overdid it a little bit on the travel). Funny story about that: the swine flu heat detector machine at Heathrow picked me out and made me do a "consultation" with an immigration nurse. Thankfully, I wasn't quarantined, but I may have a mild case of the (normal) flu. Don't worry though, Mom! I'm feeling much better today.
First, Tuesday morning (the day of my departure), I woke early to climb Table Mountain, which is stunning from the city centre and even more beautiful on the hike. After about an hour and 15 minutes of climbing (picture a stairmaster of rocks…it's very clearly marked, but uphill!), we reached the top. And what a view it was! The day was perfect, and it was a great day and activity to end my time in Cape Town. Then, I headed down to the Cathedral to say good-byes and set out for the airport.
Bruce, my principal contact here, offered to take me to the airport on his way home from work. On the ride, I did my best to thank him again (I had officially thanked him the night before with a little gift and card), and he started telling me a story. While he was the head of the Liturgical Committee of the Episcopal Church, he'd undertaken a similar research project (studying different religions, though). He told me about the wonderful contacts he met who helped him tremendously; then, he told me that he felt he "owed it to the Universe" to pass along assistance to travelers and researchers. And, now that I've been granted the fantastic experience as well, I owe the same debt to the universe. He charged me (like a good preacher giving a benediction) to pay it forward (intentional use of the movie title, Ishan). There really is no way I can thank him enough or repay him, so I will have to (and plan to) offer that help down the line.
Then, the flights! The Cape Town to Doha flight was long, slow, and delayed. Most of you know how that is; when a flight that is supposed to be ten hours becomes 12, nothing seems to feel good about it. Thus, I was excited to arrive in Doha, Qatar and head for the city during my 9 hour layover! A note about this day trip: I have been working, based on the advice of advisers over the past year, to take more healthy risks. This day trip was a risk: I was woefully underprepared (by my standards). I had prepared a great deal for Uganda and Cape Town by reading books, newspapers online, travel advice, etc. For Doha, I checked the State Dept. website to ensure I wouldn't have any issues getting in and sent two emails. That under preparedness left me free to explore whatever I found, and I did.
First, though, you should know that Doha is hot. Really hot. 110 Degrees Fahrenheit. All day. And I had come from winter. With a heavy pack containing all of my valuables. After adapting a little bit to the heat, I asked the cab to take me to the City Centre (which happened to be a mall…I was expecting a square…underprepared!), but it turned out to be an fine location. It was actually good that I was dropped at the mall, because it offered an air-conditioned homebase to escape from the sun as well as a constant stream of taxis (as getting back to the airport was a little bit of a concern for me). From the City Centre mall, I walked down to the waterfront area, where there was a fantastic little boardwalk type thing with information about the history of the city. Then, I checked out some of the very fancy hotels there, because I was given a tip that they were must-sees. They're really, really interesting…and very nice! Also a much appreciated respite from the sun. Then, I walked back into the city to explore around the other side. I didn't find too much, but did manage to stumble past some very stunning mosques into a market of sorts, which was mostly shut down because of the mid-day heat when I got there about 12:30. Then, back to the mall for a cab ride to the airport.
Doha was a very interesting city: I certainly didn't spend much time there, but here are a few things I noticed:
○ I was amazed at the sheer amount of construction. In the main city center area, there are more skyscrapers in the process of being built than currently exist. (Yes, I did count).
○ You can tell it's an oil-rich nation. Everyone has a car, and they use them to get everywhere. Moreover, the wealth of the city is pretty obvious (from the lavish construction of office buildings to the gold-rimmed entrance to the Department of Water Resources).
○ Walking in Doha was more dangerous than either Kampala or Cape Town. There are very few sidewalks (because all of the construction has covered or destroyed them), and those that exist are used as impromptu parking lots. Thus, walking on the street was the norm. And walking on the street worked in Uganda, where the roads were bad. But in Doha, the roads are great, and cars go fast. Anyways, I lived to tell the tale.
Then, back to the airport for another long flight to London. This flight, also delayed, afforded me a window seat as we flew along the Iraqi border, through Turkey (straight over Ankara, Clayton!), over the Black Sea, through Eastern Europe, between Berlin and Paris, and finally into Heathrow for my first ever stop in Europe (besides the layover in Amsterdam). I didn't see it all, because the flight was through dusk, but I saw a lot of very interesting places! Then, a quick tube ride into London for some much needed sleep.
Today, I spent the day in London. I'll write about my time in London in a few days.
I'll end on a personal note: congratulations to my brother, Ben, who took the Oath of Office as a midshipman at the Naval Academy this week. I couldn't be more proud of him, and can't wait to talk to him in 6 weeks.
Will
First, Tuesday morning (the day of my departure), I woke early to climb Table Mountain, which is stunning from the city centre and even more beautiful on the hike. After about an hour and 15 minutes of climbing (picture a stairmaster of rocks…it's very clearly marked, but uphill!), we reached the top. And what a view it was! The day was perfect, and it was a great day and activity to end my time in Cape Town. Then, I headed down to the Cathedral to say good-byes and set out for the airport.
Bruce, my principal contact here, offered to take me to the airport on his way home from work. On the ride, I did my best to thank him again (I had officially thanked him the night before with a little gift and card), and he started telling me a story. While he was the head of the Liturgical Committee of the Episcopal Church, he'd undertaken a similar research project (studying different religions, though). He told me about the wonderful contacts he met who helped him tremendously; then, he told me that he felt he "owed it to the Universe" to pass along assistance to travelers and researchers. And, now that I've been granted the fantastic experience as well, I owe the same debt to the universe. He charged me (like a good preacher giving a benediction) to pay it forward (intentional use of the movie title, Ishan). There really is no way I can thank him enough or repay him, so I will have to (and plan to) offer that help down the line.
Then, the flights! The Cape Town to Doha flight was long, slow, and delayed. Most of you know how that is; when a flight that is supposed to be ten hours becomes 12, nothing seems to feel good about it. Thus, I was excited to arrive in Doha, Qatar and head for the city during my 9 hour layover! A note about this day trip: I have been working, based on the advice of advisers over the past year, to take more healthy risks. This day trip was a risk: I was woefully underprepared (by my standards). I had prepared a great deal for Uganda and Cape Town by reading books, newspapers online, travel advice, etc. For Doha, I checked the State Dept. website to ensure I wouldn't have any issues getting in and sent two emails. That under preparedness left me free to explore whatever I found, and I did.
First, though, you should know that Doha is hot. Really hot. 110 Degrees Fahrenheit. All day. And I had come from winter. With a heavy pack containing all of my valuables. After adapting a little bit to the heat, I asked the cab to take me to the City Centre (which happened to be a mall…I was expecting a square…underprepared!), but it turned out to be an fine location. It was actually good that I was dropped at the mall, because it offered an air-conditioned homebase to escape from the sun as well as a constant stream of taxis (as getting back to the airport was a little bit of a concern for me). From the City Centre mall, I walked down to the waterfront area, where there was a fantastic little boardwalk type thing with information about the history of the city. Then, I checked out some of the very fancy hotels there, because I was given a tip that they were must-sees. They're really, really interesting…and very nice! Also a much appreciated respite from the sun. Then, I walked back into the city to explore around the other side. I didn't find too much, but did manage to stumble past some very stunning mosques into a market of sorts, which was mostly shut down because of the mid-day heat when I got there about 12:30. Then, back to the mall for a cab ride to the airport.
Doha was a very interesting city: I certainly didn't spend much time there, but here are a few things I noticed:
○ I was amazed at the sheer amount of construction. In the main city center area, there are more skyscrapers in the process of being built than currently exist. (Yes, I did count).
○ You can tell it's an oil-rich nation. Everyone has a car, and they use them to get everywhere. Moreover, the wealth of the city is pretty obvious (from the lavish construction of office buildings to the gold-rimmed entrance to the Department of Water Resources).
○ Walking in Doha was more dangerous than either Kampala or Cape Town. There are very few sidewalks (because all of the construction has covered or destroyed them), and those that exist are used as impromptu parking lots. Thus, walking on the street was the norm. And walking on the street worked in Uganda, where the roads were bad. But in Doha, the roads are great, and cars go fast. Anyways, I lived to tell the tale.
Then, back to the airport for another long flight to London. This flight, also delayed, afforded me a window seat as we flew along the Iraqi border, through Turkey (straight over Ankara, Clayton!), over the Black Sea, through Eastern Europe, between Berlin and Paris, and finally into Heathrow for my first ever stop in Europe (besides the layover in Amsterdam). I didn't see it all, because the flight was through dusk, but I saw a lot of very interesting places! Then, a quick tube ride into London for some much needed sleep.
Today, I spent the day in London. I'll write about my time in London in a few days.
I'll end on a personal note: congratulations to my brother, Ben, who took the Oath of Office as a midshipman at the Naval Academy this week. I couldn't be more proud of him, and can't wait to talk to him in 6 weeks.
Will
Monday, June 29, 2009
Whirlwind Weekend...And South Africa Reflections
This will be a two part post. First, I'll tell you a little bit about my last weekend in South Africa, which was quite full. Then, I'll reflect a bit on time here and look forward to the next few days of travel.
First, though, it gives me great pleasure to congratulate the Chastain Park Tidal Waves for winning the Atlanta Swimming Association Championship! Go Tidal Waves!!!
This weekend started very early Friday morning, at 4:30, when I awoke to head to the Cathedral with Bruce. Why so early, you ask? Because Desmond Tutu was presiding at the 7:15 Said Eucharist, and he'd agreed to meet with me for a bit before the service. Background: While he was Archbishop, Tutu always presided over the 7:15 Friday mass. Now, in his "retirement," he presides over that service whenever he is in town. So, about 7:00 I met Archbishop Tutu in the vestry, and was able to speak with him for about ten minutes. In the end, I mostly just listened to him! To those of you who attended the UNC commencement: he was just as funny in person as he was in front of 40,000 people. He talked a bit about his current work, and asked me about my research. In the end, I was too shy to ask for a picture (dumb, I know!), but I'll always remember meeting the Nobel Peace Prize laureate, advocate for social justice, and comedian Tutu.
Then, I joined several of my UNC friends in town for the 7:15 service, over which Tutu presided. Afterwards, he invited the entire UNC contingent to join him for breakfast with several other regulars. Thankfully, Russell Martin, a rising UNC sophomore, wasn't too shy to ask for a picture, so there is proof I met Desmond!
After the wonderful morning, I headed out for a weekend worship retreat. There, we investigated such topics as "The Challenge and Potential of Liturgy Today," "Jewish Sources of Christian Worship," and "Composing an Intercession and Prayers of the People." The retreat was very informative, and offered me the opportunity to interact with lay leaders and priests. I also was able to spend a good bit of time with the Bishop of a neighboring Diocese.
On Sunday, I awoke early to head off to St. Cyprians, Retreat (a place, not the worship retreat). Retreat is a lower middle-class "coloured" township, and I attended their 7:30 and 9:45 services. They were interesting for my research, since St. Cyp's (as it's known) does a very good job of blending the traditional APB liturgy with a jazz worship band and songs of praise. In the service, the preacher was a guest who spoke about HIV/AIDS. Right now I'm too short on time to write more observations, but St. Cyp's was a great experience.
After the service, I was invited to Sunday lunch by one of the members of the Parish Council at St. Cyprian's, Sean. I joined him and his family for lunch, which was delicious and very informative. Then, another member of the congregation invited me to a later Sunday lunch (Sunday lunch is a BIG deal here…that's the British influence still present), and so I headed over there. The second lunch was interesting because the host was the first person I've met who was an outspoken member of the DA (the minority opposition party in South Africa that actually controls the government of the Western Cape). I learned a great deal more about the politics and current situation in South Africa and coloured townships through speaking with him.
Then, I had an hour off before heading out to a Christ Church, Kenilworth, which I spoke about in my last major update (on Tuesday). It was very interesting; evangelical, but not in the same way that Uganda was evangelical at all.
Today, Monday, I headed out to Constantia (a wealthy suburb of Cape Town) to meet with a very important rector and leading liturgist in the Church there, and then rushed back to the Diocesan headquarters to meet with the Director of the Gender Desk for the Diocese and the Province.
As you can see, my last few days have been quite busy with research-related activities. With that said, I learned a great deal about the city through the interactions with other attendees at the retreat, through my two Sunday lunches, and through interviews today with Keith and Cheryl. Perhaps even more interesting, I'm beginning to really understand the unique challenges, opportunities, and methods of this Diocese. As Cheryl put it: "you've been to the right places, asked the right questions, and I don't think I can tell you much more." That's a pretty reassuring statement to hear on the second-to-last day of research.
However, as I begin to understand the Diocese, I've felt more and more confused about Cape Town and about South Africa. Unlike Uganda (or DC last summer), I have grown less comfortable here through my 17 days. The incredible contrast between the extravagance of places like Century City (a very, very fancy mall in town) and the near desperation of places like Langa or Guguletu is very difficult to comprehend. It's a place that has incredible cultural racism and I've visited places that suffering incredibly, but it is also a place of racially integrated relationships and workplaces, of hope, and with a positive future.
In the end, it's hard to believe that I've finished my research in Uganda and Cape Town. With that said, though, I'm definitely weary (in a good way). It's been 34 long days, with full weeks that I approached with lots of vigor. As a result, yesterday and today I could tell that I wasn't quite as sharp, energetic, or engaged as I had been a week ago or in Uganda. My first few days in England will be in London, where I'll just sightsee, visit friends, and rest to "re-charge" the batteries.
Looking ahead, I'll fly out of Cape Town Tuesday evening bound for Doha, Qatar (in the Middle East). I'll arrive early in the morning, and then I'll visit the city for the day before catching a flight in the late afternoon bound for London.
Will
First, though, it gives me great pleasure to congratulate the Chastain Park Tidal Waves for winning the Atlanta Swimming Association Championship! Go Tidal Waves!!!
This weekend started very early Friday morning, at 4:30, when I awoke to head to the Cathedral with Bruce. Why so early, you ask? Because Desmond Tutu was presiding at the 7:15 Said Eucharist, and he'd agreed to meet with me for a bit before the service. Background: While he was Archbishop, Tutu always presided over the 7:15 Friday mass. Now, in his "retirement," he presides over that service whenever he is in town. So, about 7:00 I met Archbishop Tutu in the vestry, and was able to speak with him for about ten minutes. In the end, I mostly just listened to him! To those of you who attended the UNC commencement: he was just as funny in person as he was in front of 40,000 people. He talked a bit about his current work, and asked me about my research. In the end, I was too shy to ask for a picture (dumb, I know!), but I'll always remember meeting the Nobel Peace Prize laureate, advocate for social justice, and comedian Tutu.
Then, I joined several of my UNC friends in town for the 7:15 service, over which Tutu presided. Afterwards, he invited the entire UNC contingent to join him for breakfast with several other regulars. Thankfully, Russell Martin, a rising UNC sophomore, wasn't too shy to ask for a picture, so there is proof I met Desmond!
After the wonderful morning, I headed out for a weekend worship retreat. There, we investigated such topics as "The Challenge and Potential of Liturgy Today," "Jewish Sources of Christian Worship," and "Composing an Intercession and Prayers of the People." The retreat was very informative, and offered me the opportunity to interact with lay leaders and priests. I also was able to spend a good bit of time with the Bishop of a neighboring Diocese.
On Sunday, I awoke early to head off to St. Cyprians, Retreat (a place, not the worship retreat). Retreat is a lower middle-class "coloured" township, and I attended their 7:30 and 9:45 services. They were interesting for my research, since St. Cyp's (as it's known) does a very good job of blending the traditional APB liturgy with a jazz worship band and songs of praise. In the service, the preacher was a guest who spoke about HIV/AIDS. Right now I'm too short on time to write more observations, but St. Cyp's was a great experience.
After the service, I was invited to Sunday lunch by one of the members of the Parish Council at St. Cyprian's, Sean. I joined him and his family for lunch, which was delicious and very informative. Then, another member of the congregation invited me to a later Sunday lunch (Sunday lunch is a BIG deal here…that's the British influence still present), and so I headed over there. The second lunch was interesting because the host was the first person I've met who was an outspoken member of the DA (the minority opposition party in South Africa that actually controls the government of the Western Cape). I learned a great deal more about the politics and current situation in South Africa and coloured townships through speaking with him.
Then, I had an hour off before heading out to a Christ Church, Kenilworth, which I spoke about in my last major update (on Tuesday). It was very interesting; evangelical, but not in the same way that Uganda was evangelical at all.
Today, Monday, I headed out to Constantia (a wealthy suburb of Cape Town) to meet with a very important rector and leading liturgist in the Church there, and then rushed back to the Diocesan headquarters to meet with the Director of the Gender Desk for the Diocese and the Province.
As you can see, my last few days have been quite busy with research-related activities. With that said, I learned a great deal about the city through the interactions with other attendees at the retreat, through my two Sunday lunches, and through interviews today with Keith and Cheryl. Perhaps even more interesting, I'm beginning to really understand the unique challenges, opportunities, and methods of this Diocese. As Cheryl put it: "you've been to the right places, asked the right questions, and I don't think I can tell you much more." That's a pretty reassuring statement to hear on the second-to-last day of research.
However, as I begin to understand the Diocese, I've felt more and more confused about Cape Town and about South Africa. Unlike Uganda (or DC last summer), I have grown less comfortable here through my 17 days. The incredible contrast between the extravagance of places like Century City (a very, very fancy mall in town) and the near desperation of places like Langa or Guguletu is very difficult to comprehend. It's a place that has incredible cultural racism and I've visited places that suffering incredibly, but it is also a place of racially integrated relationships and workplaces, of hope, and with a positive future.
In the end, it's hard to believe that I've finished my research in Uganda and Cape Town. With that said, though, I'm definitely weary (in a good way). It's been 34 long days, with full weeks that I approached with lots of vigor. As a result, yesterday and today I could tell that I wasn't quite as sharp, energetic, or engaged as I had been a week ago or in Uganda. My first few days in England will be in London, where I'll just sightsee, visit friends, and rest to "re-charge" the batteries.
Looking ahead, I'll fly out of Cape Town Tuesday evening bound for Doha, Qatar (in the Middle East). I'll arrive early in the morning, and then I'll visit the city for the day before catching a flight in the late afternoon bound for London.
Will
Thursday, June 25, 2009
The Halfway Point
Hello there! It's light snowing today in Cape Town…so it's a white Christmas in June! (Today is the 25th of June.)
Side topic: Weather is actually a very interesting point in my research…Christmas is in the middle of summer in the Southern Hemisphere, and Easter is in the Fall. Obviously, the traditional (Western) approaches to the Advent and Eastertide liturgy and music have to be adapted a bit (there isn't really a bleak midwinter to sing about during a Cape Town Christmas, for example). This is a challenge all across the hemisphere, and something I'm investigating a bit (though it's not a central focus).
I wanted to put up a post before I go "offline" for the weekend.
Today, I'm taking a day to reread my notes from Uganda and South Africa and re-direct my course, if necessary. I'm exactly halfway through my summer now, so I figured it would be a good time to reflect on my research a bit. Then, tomorrow morning I'll meet Archbishop Desmond Tutu (!!!) before heading off to a Friday and Saturday worship retreat for worship leaders from the region. Then, Sunday I'll visit St. Cyprian's, Retreat in the morning and early afternoon before heading to an evening service at Christ Church, Kenilworth to close my last Sunday in Cape Town. I'll be back with thoughts on Monday.
Will
Side topic: Weather is actually a very interesting point in my research…Christmas is in the middle of summer in the Southern Hemisphere, and Easter is in the Fall. Obviously, the traditional (Western) approaches to the Advent and Eastertide liturgy and music have to be adapted a bit (there isn't really a bleak midwinter to sing about during a Cape Town Christmas, for example). This is a challenge all across the hemisphere, and something I'm investigating a bit (though it's not a central focus).
I wanted to put up a post before I go "offline" for the weekend.
Today, I'm taking a day to reread my notes from Uganda and South Africa and re-direct my course, if necessary. I'm exactly halfway through my summer now, so I figured it would be a good time to reflect on my research a bit. Then, tomorrow morning I'll meet Archbishop Desmond Tutu (!!!) before heading off to a Friday and Saturday worship retreat for worship leaders from the region. Then, Sunday I'll visit St. Cyprian's, Retreat in the morning and early afternoon before heading to an evening service at Christ Church, Kenilworth to close my last Sunday in Cape Town. I'll be back with thoughts on Monday.
Will
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
A Weekend to Remember
Greetings from a wintery, windy (lots of 40 mph gusts!), and wet Cape Town! It's like Chapel Hill or Atlanta in late February, which isn't really that bad, but it's freezing for everyone here.
This weekend was really, really great! Here's the update:
Saturday, I spent the a relaxed morning walking around the city and reading some liturgies and documents for my research. Then, at 3:00 in the afternoon, the city stopped for the rugby match between the British and Irish Lions and the Springboks (South Africa). I watched alongside everyone else, and South Africa pulled out the victory. This is a huge tour, and these "test" matches are major, major importance to almost everyone I meet!
Saturday evening, I went to dinner with Bruce, Hope(his mother), and Ethan (Bruce's nephew and Hope's grandson). Ethan is a junior in high school who was really interesting to talk to about the decreasing racial issues in South Africa and the educational system here (one of my interests that I investigate casually everywhere I travel). Then, we went to Broadway Magic at the Artscape, one of Cape Town's Theatres. Bruce thought it was very important that I see the culture in Cape Town, and I certainly was excited to go! The show was 25 or so musical songs that included popular hits like New York, New York and Seasons of Love as well as some lesser known things. The show was great, and it was really cool to see some of South Africa's best singers (such as Aviva Pelham, who performed on Broadway for years before coming home). All in all, it was a really special night.
Sunday, I went to St. Cyprian's Langa for my research (and worship). Unlike many of the services I attend, I think this one might be interesting to you, so Ill tell you about it. First, background: Langa is the oldest black/isiXhosa township, and it is poor but not one of the informal settlements where a tin shack is your home. In a lot of ways, Langa reminded me of much of Kampala; the homes are small, one-room, there was a street market, and everyone moves via minibus taxi. It's quite a striking contrast from the Cape Town city centre (see 1st 3rd world).
The service was special because it was the culmination of a 24 hour revival of the St. Bernard Mizeki Men's Guild, a group of men from all of the isiXhosa-speaking Anglican churches in the Diocese. To celebrate, all the men arrived Saturday morning (decked out in the Anglican color…purple), and prayed, dance, and sung until the Sunday morning service. From 7:00 to 9:00 AM (when the service started) Sunday, the men danced and sung through the streets. In the service, the women of the isi-Xhosa speaking churches joined (also decked out in purple). The service was especially interesting; it was a combination of very high church (really, Catholic) style (everyone crossed themselves often, the symbolic actions during Eucharist of the priest were very elaborate, there was LOTS of incense, etc.), and traditional African. The used the exact text out of the Book of Common Prayer, but they didn't say any of the liturgy. Instead, all of the liturgy was sung in a harmonized musical style with a unique-to-Langa melody. It's quite beautiful, and it was really cool to see the mixture between the Anglo-English liturgy and traditional African singing (with traditional instruments).
The service was fairly long (4 hours), so every thirty or forty-five minutes the Men's Guild and Women's Guild would stand up, start blowing their whistles, beating their drums, and we would all dance and process through the church for ten minutes. Then, back to the Liturgy!
After the service, nobody left. Instead, men and women broke up into small groups to be updated on things to be done, etc., or to talk and socialize. While this was happening, a line formed to pass in plates full of food from a kitchen. As we ate, I learned more about Langa and about the society from the gentleman who was helping me translate (since all of the service and post-service socialization were in isiXhosa).
After I left, I went almost immediately to the Cathedral to help set-up for the reception following the Evening Program, Vivaldi's Gloria. (One of the staff had fallen ill, and I didn't mind helping set up). The Gloria was a stark contrast to Langa, but the classical music among the large, stone, dark (it was the winter solstice) Cathedral was really, really moving. The choirs and orchestra put on a great performance, and the dessert reception was nice.
Monday, I explored the diversity of the Cape Town Diocese more by meeting with some of the folks at Christ Church, Kenilworth, which is a part of the St. Johns Wynberg Parish. This parish is unique, because they have a British Parliamentary charter (continued into independent South Africa) that guarantees their right to maintain evangelical worship practices and beliefs. They also own all of their own buildings, and a committee hires their rector and clergy (subject to veto by the Archbishop). This is quite unique. They call themselves evangelical and charismatic, which is a long cry from the very high style of the rest of the Diocese. I'll attend worship there Sunday evening.
After returning to Cape Town in the afternoon, I met up with my friend Anna Claire Eddington, who is a student in my year at UNC currently doing some really interesting research into women's issues on a Burch Fellowship. She's in the midst of a two week mini-internship at the Cape Times (writing a front page story!!!), and is working about a block from the Cathedral. We had coffee, and will hopefully grab lunch some time this week (I'm the one who makes things difficult by having meetings all over the greater Cape Town area).
Then, today I had the opportunity to attend the Bishop's Forum, a meeting of all the priests in the Diocese convened by the Bishop of Table Bay in Cape Town, Bishop Garth. (The Archbishop is also the Bishop of Cape Town, but as he's quite busy elsewhere, they have an acting Bishop, Garth). The Forum is part staff meeting, part professional development/continuing education, and part socialization. It was great for several reasons: I was able to connect or reconnect with several of my contacts or people I've interviewed here (and I've now spoken with about 20% of the priests in the diocese), and I also was able to hear some of the topics of discussion in the Diocese right now. The keynote speaker was an expert on Girardian thought, which is quite interesting. It was more philosophical than I was prepared for, but I did learn a lot.
Now, I'm looking forward to a busy week ahead. I have internet access every day in my office at the Cathedral, so feel free to shoot me an email and I'll respond.
Oh, and I'm going to restart the brief anecdote portion in my blog: the topic today is food prices. Over the past few weeks, I've frequented quite a number of cheap to mid-price restaurants and one quite nice one (with Bruce Saturday night). The cheap restaurants all are actually quite close to the US costs for a meal. I'll pay 3 dollars on average for a sandwich, for example, which is cheaper than the US, but not by much. The nice restaurants, however, are much, much cheaper than the US. Bruce took us to a high-end Italian restaurant on Saturday, and the entrees were about 9 dollars each (for something that would have been 20-25 in the States). It's very interesting that food prices for cheap to fancy are much closer together here and that, relative to the States, the expensive food is a much cheaper. It certainly wasn't that way in Uganda.
Until next time,
Will
This weekend was really, really great! Here's the update:
Saturday, I spent the a relaxed morning walking around the city and reading some liturgies and documents for my research. Then, at 3:00 in the afternoon, the city stopped for the rugby match between the British and Irish Lions and the Springboks (South Africa). I watched alongside everyone else, and South Africa pulled out the victory. This is a huge tour, and these "test" matches are major, major importance to almost everyone I meet!
Saturday evening, I went to dinner with Bruce, Hope(his mother), and Ethan (Bruce's nephew and Hope's grandson). Ethan is a junior in high school who was really interesting to talk to about the decreasing racial issues in South Africa and the educational system here (one of my interests that I investigate casually everywhere I travel). Then, we went to Broadway Magic at the Artscape, one of Cape Town's Theatres. Bruce thought it was very important that I see the culture in Cape Town, and I certainly was excited to go! The show was 25 or so musical songs that included popular hits like New York, New York and Seasons of Love as well as some lesser known things. The show was great, and it was really cool to see some of South Africa's best singers (such as Aviva Pelham, who performed on Broadway for years before coming home). All in all, it was a really special night.
Sunday, I went to St. Cyprian's Langa for my research (and worship). Unlike many of the services I attend, I think this one might be interesting to you, so Ill tell you about it. First, background: Langa is the oldest black/isiXhosa township, and it is poor but not one of the informal settlements where a tin shack is your home. In a lot of ways, Langa reminded me of much of Kampala; the homes are small, one-room, there was a street market, and everyone moves via minibus taxi. It's quite a striking contrast from the Cape Town city centre (see 1st 3rd world).
The service was special because it was the culmination of a 24 hour revival of the St. Bernard Mizeki Men's Guild, a group of men from all of the isiXhosa-speaking Anglican churches in the Diocese. To celebrate, all the men arrived Saturday morning (decked out in the Anglican color…purple), and prayed, dance, and sung until the Sunday morning service. From 7:00 to 9:00 AM (when the service started) Sunday, the men danced and sung through the streets. In the service, the women of the isi-Xhosa speaking churches joined (also decked out in purple). The service was especially interesting; it was a combination of very high church (really, Catholic) style (everyone crossed themselves often, the symbolic actions during Eucharist of the priest were very elaborate, there was LOTS of incense, etc.), and traditional African. The used the exact text out of the Book of Common Prayer, but they didn't say any of the liturgy. Instead, all of the liturgy was sung in a harmonized musical style with a unique-to-Langa melody. It's quite beautiful, and it was really cool to see the mixture between the Anglo-English liturgy and traditional African singing (with traditional instruments).
The service was fairly long (4 hours), so every thirty or forty-five minutes the Men's Guild and Women's Guild would stand up, start blowing their whistles, beating their drums, and we would all dance and process through the church for ten minutes. Then, back to the Liturgy!
After the service, nobody left. Instead, men and women broke up into small groups to be updated on things to be done, etc., or to talk and socialize. While this was happening, a line formed to pass in plates full of food from a kitchen. As we ate, I learned more about Langa and about the society from the gentleman who was helping me translate (since all of the service and post-service socialization were in isiXhosa).
After I left, I went almost immediately to the Cathedral to help set-up for the reception following the Evening Program, Vivaldi's Gloria. (One of the staff had fallen ill, and I didn't mind helping set up). The Gloria was a stark contrast to Langa, but the classical music among the large, stone, dark (it was the winter solstice) Cathedral was really, really moving. The choirs and orchestra put on a great performance, and the dessert reception was nice.
Monday, I explored the diversity of the Cape Town Diocese more by meeting with some of the folks at Christ Church, Kenilworth, which is a part of the St. Johns Wynberg Parish. This parish is unique, because they have a British Parliamentary charter (continued into independent South Africa) that guarantees their right to maintain evangelical worship practices and beliefs. They also own all of their own buildings, and a committee hires their rector and clergy (subject to veto by the Archbishop). This is quite unique. They call themselves evangelical and charismatic, which is a long cry from the very high style of the rest of the Diocese. I'll attend worship there Sunday evening.
After returning to Cape Town in the afternoon, I met up with my friend Anna Claire Eddington, who is a student in my year at UNC currently doing some really interesting research into women's issues on a Burch Fellowship. She's in the midst of a two week mini-internship at the Cape Times (writing a front page story!!!), and is working about a block from the Cathedral. We had coffee, and will hopefully grab lunch some time this week (I'm the one who makes things difficult by having meetings all over the greater Cape Town area).
Then, today I had the opportunity to attend the Bishop's Forum, a meeting of all the priests in the Diocese convened by the Bishop of Table Bay in Cape Town, Bishop Garth. (The Archbishop is also the Bishop of Cape Town, but as he's quite busy elsewhere, they have an acting Bishop, Garth). The Forum is part staff meeting, part professional development/continuing education, and part socialization. It was great for several reasons: I was able to connect or reconnect with several of my contacts or people I've interviewed here (and I've now spoken with about 20% of the priests in the diocese), and I also was able to hear some of the topics of discussion in the Diocese right now. The keynote speaker was an expert on Girardian thought, which is quite interesting. It was more philosophical than I was prepared for, but I did learn a lot.
Now, I'm looking forward to a busy week ahead. I have internet access every day in my office at the Cathedral, so feel free to shoot me an email and I'll respond.
Oh, and I'm going to restart the brief anecdote portion in my blog: the topic today is food prices. Over the past few weeks, I've frequented quite a number of cheap to mid-price restaurants and one quite nice one (with Bruce Saturday night). The cheap restaurants all are actually quite close to the US costs for a meal. I'll pay 3 dollars on average for a sandwich, for example, which is cheaper than the US, but not by much. The nice restaurants, however, are much, much cheaper than the US. Bruce took us to a high-end Italian restaurant on Saturday, and the entrees were about 9 dollars each (for something that would have been 20-25 in the States). It's very interesting that food prices for cheap to fancy are much closer together here and that, relative to the States, the expensive food is a much cheaper. It certainly wasn't that way in Uganda.
Until next time,
Will
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