Back to the City!

This was supposed to be posted Tuesday evening, but internet difficulties got in the way:

Orohota (Rutooro for Hello)! As I type, I've just arrived back in Kampala from Fort Portal. I'll give a brief update (shorter than last time, I promise!).

On Sunday morning, I attended worship services at St. John's for research and then at Fort Portal Pentecostal Church, where Stanley (my contact and host) is the worship leader. There, I was called up to say hello and got a rousing greeting (again, that guest dynamic is very strong here). I got a lot of great research done (again, if you want to know about this, just contact me).

After church, I said goodbye to the good Rev. Kisembo, who had hosted me in Iruhuura for two days. I was his guest, and thus he paid for all of my food, bottled water, etc. during my visit. However, he comes from a very poor parish, makes very little himself, and I didn't want to leave him with a 20,000 or 25,000 Shilling debt due to my visit. Thus, after some consultation with Stanley, I was able to give him a "gift" to thank him and to cover the costs of my visit. Culturally, paying him would not acceptable, but a gift seems to be ok.

Then, Stanley, Pauline, and I went to take some pictures together and then to tea with several of their best friends. This gathering was at Eddie and Dana's house, and I had a great time talking to Eddie (who works for an NGO in rural development) and Dana. They are both very knowledgeable about Uganda and the East African area, and I definitely picked their brains. It was also Dana's birthday, so I helped celebrate (that was the reason we went for tea). The tea was fantastic because it introduced me to some more people in Uganda, but also because I was able to see and join normal social interactions. As a guest, I felt like a lot of the interactions were introductions. With them, however, I was just a member of the group of friends talking about their homes, their town, and their country.

A funny story from that tea: another woman present was pregnant, and everyone there (and everyone in town) calls her "MP" (which stands for Member of Parliament) because she is so heavy. The joke is that all actual MPs are fat because they "eat the government's money" (in Pauline's words).

Monday, I went to St. Johns in the morning for interviews with several of the lay leaders and priets (I am here doing research, after all). Then, I traveled by bodaboda four or five kilometers to Stanley's school, the Shalom Junior School (his real job, besides making me his guest!). This school, which he runs, is in it's infancy, but is set up for success. He has a real, manageable plan for the school, and the students and parents are invested in their education. It's also amazing what a small amount of US dollars can do; he was showing me that he can build a full classroom for $5000. It's pretty amazing what US currency can do here.

That afternoon, I purchased a cell phone, finalized some contacts in Kampala, and prepared to say goodbye to a great place, Fort Portal. Before I left, though, I was going to try to see the Bishop of Rwenzori Diocese (where I'd been studying). I went to the offices this morning at 8:00, and was eventually given an audience at 9:30 with the assisstance of several of the priests I spoke with yesterday. Though the time was short (20 minutes or so), the interview was very, very helpful.

After that interview, I rode the bus back to Kampala and now am staying in a hostel frequented by westerners (read: mzungu) in Kampala for a few days. It's a bit different to hear English spoken, but I am also looking forward to hearing a bit of western and American news.

I was/am a bit nervous about being in the city; in Fort Portal, Stanley did his own work but was never too far away and I knew the town prety well after those few days. Here, though, I really am on my own. That's a scary thought, but it's also one that excites me a bit. It may be a small thing for you world-travelers out there (cough, cough most of you reading), but I just went on my first walk to the market and purchased some bottled water (800Sh at the market vs. 1500 at the hostel…my friends know I don't like to spend money), some breakfast foods, and some snacks to take to Namugongo tomorrow. I made the trip, about a 30 min. round trip walk, as it was getting dark, and it made me a lot more comfortable with the city. It's definitely fast-paced, but it's a lot slower when you walk rather than ride the mini-bus taxis (which still scare me a bit). I'm looking forward to spending some quality time with the city!

Finally, tomorrow, I'll head out to Namugongo (the Anglican shrine 25 km away) to attend the Martyrs Day Services (a national holiday here). The service will be attended by most of the powerful people here as well as hundreds of thousands of pilgrims who've literally walked from all over the country. It'll probably be a full day's journey, and then I plan to take Thursday "off" from research to learn Kampala and rest a bit (I've already done about 50 hours of research, and I was aiming for 20-25 a week). I'm hoping to see my friend Bryanna, who is also in Kampala, on Thursday!

A brief note: I'll write more frequently now (as I'll have internet almost every day), but I promise the posts will be shorter!

Webale nyo (Luganda for thank you) for reading. Mad luv!

And here's the latest update:

Today (Wednesday) was a national holiday for Uganda Martyr's Day, which is a celebration of the Christian martyrs who were killed June 3, 1886. To celebrate the day, pilgrims from all over the country visit Namugongo, the site of the killings in 1886, where there are an Anglican and Roman Catholic Shrine. Each denomination hosts services there and literally 50,000 people or so attend.

As a part of my research, I attended the services, but the event was really fun for me personally as well. First, I caught a minibus taxi out of the New Taxi Park in Kampala city to Namugongo (25 km or so). The cost was 2000 sh (about 95 cents) for 25 km! Then, I walked the 5 km to the Anglican shrine (even those who ride taxis instead of walk the entire way are forced to walk because of crowds). The entire road was filled with people, and the final journey was a combination street fair with food vendors with religious folk. It was a really cool atmosphere.

When I arrived at the Anglican Shrine, I picked out a spot to watch the processional, which included the Archbishop and Retired Archbishop of Uganda as well as most of the Bishops. The Bishop of Ruwenzori, with whom I met Tuesday, noticed me and gave me a nod. The service was quite interesting; it was conducted in a natural amphitheatre of sorts, with all of the congregants (thousands) spread out on the grass of a hill. The congregants came and went, buying food from vendors, etc. as needed. The day was very important and very successful for my research. I also met several very interesting Ugandans, who were quite interested to talk with this non-Ugandan at the service. After the four hour service (celebration would be a better term) ended, the skies opened and I jumped under an awning with a LOT of other people. Then, I bought a chapati for lunch and caught another minibus taxi to the city center. After this ride, which cost 2500 (for long rides where everyone goes to the same place, the negotiation is all done as a group in Luganda and then the same price is paid by everyone in the taxi, so I'm not sure how the ride cost 500 more) ended in Kampala, I walked through the city center for the first time to find Bryanna Schwartz, one of my friends from UNC. She's staying here working with Africare, and I met her and Dale, her traveling companion, for a afternoon soda and then dinner. It was great to see someone I knew again. Tomorrow, I'll take the day off from research (besides making a few calls to confirm Friday interviews), and plan to wander Kampala to learn the city.

Until next time,

Will

PS-To those of you who sent emails that I haven't responded to, I will do so shortly! I really do value your comments and thoughts, and I will respond to each of you as quickly as the no-so-fast internet connection here allows.